In 1983 local producers of dry Rieslings launched the Association of Charta estates to provide consumers with high-grade wines. Over the years the rules to be accepted as a Charta wine got stiffer and stiffer. This sounds like a good idea to me. Charta wines usually come in a tall brown bottle with a Romanesque double-arch on a white background. I haven t been able to locate a Charta wine in my local wine stores, but if I manage to do so, I ll be writing a review.

The main city in the Rheingau region is Wiesbaden whose population is about 270,000 including an important American military presence. Tourist attractions include the Schlossplatz (Palace Square) in the center of the city and the Neo-Gothic Marktkirche (Market Church). The Wiesbaden thermal springs and spa date back to Roman times. It is said that one hundred years ago Wiesbaden had more millionaires than any other German city. Perhaps this is why Wiesbaden is a center for German antiques.

We have already mentioned the castle in nearby Johannisberg. The monastery dates back to 1100 by which time the area was well known for wine production. Look for a statue in the courtyard commemorating the Abbey s messenger who arrived so late.

Before reviewing the Rheingau wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Lachstatar (Salmon Tartare). Continue with Weinfleisch (Pork Goulash in Riesling sauce). For dessert indulge yourself with Rieslingsorbet (Riesling Sherbert) with sparkling Riesling poured over it.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Hupfeld Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2004 10.5% alcohol about $17

Let s start by quoting the marketing materials which are somewhat longer than usual. Savvy producers have recognized the importance of brand name for a lot longer than we know. In 1845, when the British Royal Family visited the village of Hochheim, the owner of this property invited them to come and try his wines. As the story goes, the Queen was most amused . Over the next five years, subsequent vintages of these wines were sent to England for the Queen s enjoyment. In 1850, she gave her blessing for the vineyard to be renamed Hochheimer K nigin Victoriaberg. To this day, whenever the British Royal Family visits Germany, they are served the wines from this property

Please note that this little anecdote did not influence my purchase decision, but perhaps the beautiful bottle with green fluted glass and a very picturesque label did. Having just finished a series on Italian wine, and presently working on a French wine series, I will have to get used to the generally lower level of alcohol in German wine. Frankly, I don t expect that to be a problem. And now for the review.

My first meal consisted of a stove-top cooked chicken in a somewhat sweet soy-based brown sauce. The meat was accompanied by rice and cooked beets. The wine lingered pleasantly in my mouth. It was fruity, tasting of apples and lime. Unlike many Rieslings, it had no smell of gasoline. The wine was not very imposing. I finished the meal with two desserts, and wasn t afraid to pair them with this semisweet wine. I found that dry, thin biscotti type cookies with sliced almonds and pistachios intensified the wine s fruit. It also went well with homemade chocolate cookies, being refreshingly acidic.